2020 GeoEx Catalog

Ge Ex

To the Ends of the Earth

Content s To the Ends of the Earth  1 Why GeoEx  2 New Trips  5

Ways to Travel with GeoEx  6 GeoEx Edge  11 GeoEx Safaris  12 GeoEx Family Adventures  14 GeoEx Trains and Cruises  17 South and Southeast Asia Bhutan  20   Nepal  23   Tibet, China  24 India  26 Sri Lanka  30 Myanmar  31 Vietnam  32 Cambodia  33 Indonesia  34 Malaysia  35 Laos  36 East and Central Asia and Russia Japan  37 China  39 Mongolia  42 Russia  43 The Silk Road  44   Pakistan  46 The Middle East and Turkey Oman  47   Saudi Arabia  48 Iran  49   Israel  50   Turkey  51 Africa Egypt  54   Morocco  55   Sudan  56 Chad  57 Kenya  58 Tanzania  60 Ethiopia  62 Rwanda  63 Zambia  66 Namibia  67 South Africa  68 Botswana  70   Madagascar  71 West Africa  72 Uganda  73   Zimbabwe  73 Americas Chile and Argentina  76 Peru  80 Ecuador  81 The Galápagos  82 Colombia  84 Brazil  85   Costa Rica  88 Guatemala  89   Cuba  90   Alaska  93 Europe Norway  94   Iceland  95 The Poles and the Pacific The Arctic  96   Antarctica  97 Australia  98 New Zealand  99 · Destination Calendar  100 Trip Leaders  104 Staff  106   Responsible Travel  108

The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind. anthony bourdain

Chinstrap penguins congregating

FOLLOWING

on an iceberg, Antarctica.

�he world is more connected today t�an it has ever been.

Information (and misinformation) speeds from one side of the globe to the other in seconds, offering a sound-bite sense of life in other lands.Yet, as any traveler knows, it’s only when we swap virtual for in-person interactions that a place and its inhabitants truly come alive for us, that their varied beauties and challenges glide into focus and resonate. By physically stepping out of our familiar routines and confines, by opening ourselves to cultures and landscapes different from our own, we have the chance to make powerful—even life-changing—connections. This is one of the immense joys of travel, and one reason we at Geographic Expeditions (GeoEx) embarked on this great travel venture back in 1982. We hope the pages ahead inspire and intrigue you, and perhaps compel you to discover firsthand more of earth’s fascinating individuals and astonishing wonders.The assorted adventures you see, built with care from our own explorations and relationships, are just a taste of what’s possible with GeoEx.

Why GeoEx

I t’s been 38 years since GeoEx got its start, and we’re still happily pouring our passion and expertise into handcrafting extraordinary journeys to the ends of the earth—adventures that are at once illuminating and tremendously enjoyable. We feel privileged to send our travelers to places they’ve dreamed of for years, compelling destinations across all seven continents that we know deeply, and we are committed to doing their dreams and these destinations justice. The GeoEx staff, probably the most experienced in the industry, goes the extra mile to create trips that would be difficult to arrange on one’s own. We’re constantly scouting new locations; uncovering fresh takes on classic places; checking hotels, guides, and drivers; and making connections that win our guests entrée into little-known nooks and crannies. We thrive on finding the right combinations for each person, handling all the details, and being on call throughout—all of which have earned GeoEx remarkable loyalty from our travelers. While much travel planning can be done on the internet, no amount of Googling can replace the hands-on care and hard-won knowledge, intimate relationships with

MARISKA VAN DEN BRINK

ABOVE  A GeoEx traveler learning about daily life of the Mursi people in Ethiopia’s distant Omo Valley.  BELOW  Dancers at the Paro tshechu , or festival. Bhutan’s festivals are simultaneously secular and spiritual.

associates in the field, and thorough safety net that GeoEx offers. We’re proud to be consistently ranked among the world’s top travel companies by magazines like Condé Nast Traveler , Outside , AFAR , and Travel + Leisure . But noth- ing makes us happier than hearing reports from satisfied travelers, such as this one from John B.: “This is our third experience with GeoEx. It was magical. I continue to be extremely impressed with the overall GeoEx experience, level of customization, and service.” Unparalleled Service and Logistics We’re dedicated to constructing engaging, enriching, imaginative itineraries that balance adventure and comfort and that hit highpoints as well as unexpected, less-visited delights—all with your particular interests and prefer- ences in mind. From our first conversation to your return

The trip was amazing! My wife and I are now thoroughly spoiled. . . . One could get used to the traveling care of Geographic Expeditions.

frederick l., san rafael, ca

ROBERT MACKINLAY

GAVIN HELLIER / ROBERT HARDING

All Continents You’d be hard-pressed to find another company that offers smartly designed journeys in as many faraway places as GeoEx. Even fewer are able to connect those destinations as wisely and seamlessly as we do—a fact that has prompted countless people and organizations to have GeoEx arrange ambitious multi-nation jaunts. If you’re up for border-bounding adventures or simply want to visit ruins in Guatemala one year and trek in Nepal the next, that’s our specialty: 100-plus countries, unlimited options. Safety: There to Back You Up Every traveler needs to ask: Who will be there for me if things go awry? GeoEx has constructed one of the most comprehensive risk-management programs in the industry, covering logistical, security, medical, and financial risks. We and our global network care- fully monitor travel conditions and maintain a nearly round-the-clock logistics, air, security, and emer- gency assistance center. For each GeoEx traveler, we include emergency medical evacuation and medical advisory services, as well as secondary medical expense insurance, and we’ll gladly line up trip cancellation insurance. Your journey, after all, should be about journeying, not worrying.

home, we’re there for you, discussing the ins and outs of your trip, arranging complex flight routings, and stepping in if things slip off track. We select topflight guides and make sure that every lodge, hotel, train, ship, and camp is up to our—and your—high standards, saving you time and headaches along what can be a very bumpy road. Once we know you, we carry that knowledge to every trip you take. Insider Access At the core of GeoEx is a unique ability to access unusual and even off-limits places. We’re practiced at orchestrating complicated itineraries with authentic insider experiences— wrangling permits, navigating shifting politics, finding routes in without commercial flights, and gaining entry to local happenings. Try visiting nomads and conservationists in Chad, booking seats to Bhutan on Druk Air, tracking down underground art collectives in Cuba, securing a trustworthy expedition staff in Peru, getting reservations at a respectable Bagan hotel, or geocache-hunting in Zimbabwe. We open doors that bring a destination and its people to life, doors that would remain closed without the kind of expertise, in-country colleagues, and on-the- ground knowledge that we possess.

ABOVE  Overlooking the Rano Kau crater on Rapa Nui (or Easter Island), the most remote inhabited island on the planet. Nearly a mile across, the crater has its own microclimate.

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GeoEx is amazing! Hours and hours of time have been saved by having someone to work with who knows the region inside and out.

christy b., fortville, in

JON ARNOLD IMAGES LTD / ALAMY

New Trips S ince the get-go, we’ve been passionate about finding new, creative, and authentic travel experiences for our guests. Here is some of our latest work. Off the Map in Eastern Bhutan: We venture into the ultra-remote eastern half of Bhutan with Brent Olson to explore ancient Buddhist temples, bird-filled forests, and extraordinary textiles. See page 21. Bhutan’s Hidden Highlands Trek: This rarified expedition travels through pristine scenery to the base of 24,836-foot Gangkhar Puensuum, the world’s highest unclimbed mountain massif. See page 22. Legendary Nepal: Based from a favorite home of Sir Edmund Hillary in the untouristed Solu Khumbu, we hike to monasteries and revel in snowcapped summits, helicopter rides, and Sherpa culture. See page 23. Soul of Sri Lanka: We discover Hindu temples and golden beaches in the off-the-radar north before turn- ing south for archaeological gems, breathtaking tea trails, colonial forts, and elephant-filled jungle. See page 30. Vietnam Family Journey: Our explorations through enchanting towns and far-flung villages are enlivened by Vespa rides, cooking classes, market tours, bamboo rafting, and lantern-making. See page 32. Mongolia's Altai Eagle Festival: We attend the lower- profile Altai Eagle Festival for a thrilling, authentic look at Kazakh traditions and immerse ourselves in the vast, magnificent Gobi Desert. See page 42.

Oman Family Odyssey: Cultural and active jaunts engage the whole family from Muscat to the Wahabi Sands with stops for camel riding, bazaar browsing, and dips in dramatic wadis. See page 47. Saudi Arabia: Our trailblazing journey traverses this Islamic kingdom, marveling at ultra-modern cities, age-old rock art, and mud-brick villages and exploring the country’s changing way of life. See page 48. Egypt Insider: This all-women trip gets to know Egypt’s history and heart through a female lens, enjoying uncom- mon tomb openings, a private dahabeya cruise, and two exceptional leaders. See page 54. Secrets of Tanzania: Legendary adventurer Kingsley Holgate and safari savant Brad Hansen reveal Tanzania during two secret seasons, showcasing sensational wildlife and rarely seen cultures. See page 60. Solar Eclipse Argentina and Patagonia Icons: For the best viewing of the 2020 eclipse, we have exclu- sive use of a private ranch set in the path of totality, plus astronomer Dr. Ed Krupp to guide us. See page 78. Ice Bear Explorer: An ice-class ship carries us far north to the Svalbard archipelago, where we search tidewater glaciers, towering icebergs, and deep fjords for polar bears and other surprising Arctic life. See page 96. New Zealand Family Wonders: This North to South Island adventure features bubbling geysers, Maori tra­ ditions, glowworm-illuminated caves, jaw-dropping mountains, and plenty of outdoor fun. See page 99.

A border is always a temptation.

JON ARNOLD IMAGES LTD / ALAMY

larry mcmurtry

FACING  Tea harvesting at Nuwara Eliya, or Little England, central highlands, Sri Lanka.  ABOVE  Looking into the main chamber of the Temple of Ramses II, Abu Simbel, Egypt.

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Ways toTravel with GeoEx MARSEL VAN OOSTEN

CustomTrips Our Custom Trips, precisely tailored or built completely from scratch for you and your chosen travel compadres, are filled with personalized details, special-access visits, and imaginative touches. More time here, less time there, skip this and add that—we’ll work hand in hand with you to come up with a journey that suits your style, time frame, and travel imaginings. We like creating Custom Trips. We’ve been at it for 38 years and are proud of having choreographed some highly unusual adventures. In fact, such handcrafted journeys comprise more than half of our business.

Many travel companies will tell you they’re able and eager to build custom journeys, but frankly, very few really are. It’s labor-intensive work, and it demands delicacy, empathy, experience, and lots of knowledge, responsibility, relationships, and time—all of which we have in abundance. Our travel wizards routinely pull off difficult logistics, knitting together trips of all kinds with rare moments, such as dinners with Bhutanese dignitaries, outings with trained golden eagle hunters, sessions in the private recording studios of famous musicians, off-hours museum visits in the company of curators, and meetings with acclaimed economists, historians, and artists. The earth’s wonders—and possibilities for explor- ing them—are limitless. Let us in on your wildest travel dreams; 15 countries in one trip can be (and has been) done. How about taking a transcontinental adventure through Asia, Africa, or the Americas, or even around the world? We can make it happen. Nearly all of GeoEx’s trips are fully customizable.

MACDUFF EVERTON

Wanderlust is as permanent and chronic a feature of the human animal as heartache.

anthony lane

TOP A sundown scene on Lake Natron, Tanzania. ABOVE Cruising the Kerala backwaters by houseboat, south India.

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BRAD HANSEN

GeoEx has arranged itineraries for academic institutions, museums, NGOs, and location and production companies, including: • American Museum of Natural History

• Council on Foreign Relations • National Geographic Society

• The Rockefeller Foundation

Small GroupTrips Our thoughtfully devised Group Trips treat you to exceptional local experi- ences, superlative guides and accommodations, and seamless connections at the best possible pricing. We keep our groups small—rarely more than 16 travelers, often fewer—and they are almost always composed of like- minded, agreeable sorts. We’ve also seen bands of friends or family members fill all the spaces of scheduled departures and come back raving about sharing life-changing moments. Many of our most enthusiastic guests don’t necessarily think of them- selves as people who travel in groups, but they’ve found the fellowship and information-sharing of a small group memorably delightful. Cindy Hiteman, a GeoEx Ambassador, explains, “One of the many benefits and bonuses I have received from traveling with GeoEx is the number of good friends I’ve made! Seriously, some of my favorite and closest friends are those I’ve met traveling.”

• Smithsonian

National Board

• Tibet House

• The Walt Disney Company • Wharton Executive MBA Program

ABOVE RIGHT  A GeoEx group and their guides in Chad.  BELOW  Crossing one of the vine bridges built by the Heike clan in the isolated Iya Valley to keep enemies at bay, Shikoku Island, Japan.

MACDUFF EVERTON

We had an exceptional trip! We are GeoEx customers for life now.

becky g., portland, or

Led by Kate Doty (an award-winning, travel-planning visionary with decades of experience), GeoEx’s Premier Access team arranges unique explorations in iconic and remote regions of the world, providing unparalleled per- sonal attention, privacy, and customization. Many of our Premier Access guests are high-profile people looking to keep a low profile—something we’re adept at maintaining. These adventurers have savored gourmet dinners alone in the Pyramids, trekked to the world’s highest mountains, met privately with luminaries like artist and activist Ai Weiwei and Nobel laureate Desmond Tutu, and honey- mooned in the fabled Rub al Khali (Empty Quarter), sand- boarding and four-wheel-driving across endless dunes to a luxuriously appointed, traditional goat-hair tented camp, which welcomed them with a customary coffee ceremony and the fragrance of frankincense. They’ve moved about by local ferry and pedicab as well as Rolls Royce and pri- vate jet. The exciting examples keep coming.  The Most Extraordinary Journeys Travel feeds the soul, waking us up and providing a fresh view of the world and our place in it. I’ve felt a shift simply by immersing myself in everyday life

‘‘

from Mexico to Morocco, but I’ve been especially moved by seeing extraordinary wildlife conservation efforts in India and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.  I love finding that perfect balance of adventure, adrenaline, and comfort for

our travelers.They are game changers, ready to embark on new and surprising adventures. It’s motivating and challenging to design journeys that are fun, push boundaries, and exceed expectations.

’’

Kate Doty, Premier Access Innovator

FACING  A sunrise hot-air balloon ride in Turkey over Cappadocia’s fairy landscapes, created when seas of volcanic ash solidified into soft stone, or tufa, which in turn eroded magically into deep valleys, needle-like towers, and irregular cones.

STEFANO POLITI MARKOVINA / ALAMY

LUIS DAFOS / ALAMY

FACING  A young nomad, baby goat in hand, rides on an ox carrying the materials for a house, Chad.  ABOVE  Hunza Valley, Pakistan. The imposing Baltit Fort was home to the Mirs of Hunza for more than 750 years until the present palace was built in 1945.

GeoEx Edge

I f you’ve known us for some time, you’re probably aware that GeoEx has a tradition of blazing trails in travel. In fact, the idea for the company sparked to life during a pioneering trek to the Tibetan side of Mount Everest in 1981, the first of many times we gained unprec- edented access to remarkable places. To reminisce about a couple others: We were also the first US-based com- pany to successfully lead expeditions across the southern Patagonian Ice Cap (1989) and through northeastern Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor (2008). We’re still pas- sionate about thoughtfully pushing the boundaries in travel, and we highlight our most groundbreaking trips and exhilarating adventures in the collection we’ve snazzily named GeoEx Edge. Treks Staying true to our trekking legacy, our mountain mavens have curated a portfolio of unusual, exceptionally splendid expeditions—both Group and Custom Trips—from the Andes to the Himalaya. We insist on meticulously planning and preparing our treks, far more than most outfitters. We carefully select safe routes, well-trained staff, world-class gear, and experienced trip leaders who know

how to manage their teams and make smart calls on the trail. Read about our treks in the pages to come, or visit GeoEx.com/Treks Now Places In keeping with our trailblazing spirit, we’ve devised inventive explorations in destinations that are just opening to tourism or are off-the-beaten-track tough- to-navigate—places like Saudi Arabia, Sudan, eastern Bhutan, Colombia, Pakistan, and Benin. They’re culturally and scenically

rich, deeply fascinating, and perched on the doorstep of change. Visiting them feels novel and electrifying, and is worth doing sooner rather than later.

To learn more about our history of firsts, see GeoEx.com/History  

When traveling in remote places, realize that GeoEx staffers are experts and that you are in excellent care.

paula s., st. louis, mo

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JOHN WARBURTON-LEE / DANITADELIMONT.COM

STEVE BLOOM / ALAMY

GeoEx Safaris S ince 1996, we have been perfecting our safari craft. We know how (and love) to venture off the tourist treadmill into exclusive, intentionally chosen nature preserves whose lodges and camps are charming, uncrowded, and comfortable. We relish getting you close up to wildlife and introducing you to the toppest- notch guides on the continent. And if some beach

Thank you for your time and effort in arranging the most amazing journey of my life! The memories of the beauty, serenity, and wildlife of Botswana will always stay with me.

denise g., san francisco, ca

lolling on an Indian Ocean isle or cul- tural exploration elsewhere in Africa sounds appealing for afterward, we can arrange that, too.

For more on our wide-ranging,

LEGENDARY EXPEDITIONS

customizable safaris, flip to page 57 or visit GeoEx.com/Safaris

ABOVE  Zebras swirling through Botswana’s Okavango Delta.

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MARSEL VAN OOSTEN

Deep Expertise, One-of-a-KindTrips

Traveling to Africa each year, GeoEx’s safari celebrants find the newest safari offerings, strengthen our long-standing relationships, and keep up on conservation efforts. Putting this rare level of expertise to work, they can (and do) design wonderfully creative, superb safaris, as well as line up special lodges (that book up far in advance) and private conservancies (that are hard to get to). Weaving together the complex options—from camps and countries to guides, activities, flights, and services—they’ll create your dream safari, whether it’s your first or fiftieth.

LEFT  Certain encounters make time stand still, Lower Zambezi National Park, Zambia.

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CHRISTY BECKER

ABOVE  GeoEx Ambassador Christy Becker and her family enjoying the sights and experiences of Turkey.  BELOW  Flying through Costa Rica’s rain-forest canopy. 

GeoEx Family Adventures

E xploring exotic places as a family—sharing remark- able sights, forging new paths as a team, and having fun together—bonds loved ones and creates lasting memories. That’s why GeoEx takes great care in design- ing trips for every kind of family group—from grand­ parent/grandchild duos to 20-person, four-generation reunions. We love crafting adventures that comfortably, authentically, and delightfully immerse families in new cultures and experiences. We thoughtfully select the pacing, trip leaders, activities, and accommodations to suit your traveling clan’s style and needs.

PATRICK J. ENDRES / ALASKAPHOTOGRAPHICS.COM

The trip had the perfect combination of restful luxury, kid fun, and educational adventure. It was one of the best trips our family has ever taken.

carol s., mill valley, ca

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Fun, Illuminating Experiences for All Throughout our enthralling, family-friendly destinations, we’ve already sussed out engaging cultural interactions and adventurous experiences that youngsters and grown- ups learn from and enjoy. Here’s a taste: dining with

WILDERNESS SAFARIS

a Xhosa family in their South Africa home, painting at an arts cooperative in Cuba, volcano hiking in Iceland, mountain biking to Incan sites in Peru, and sleeping out under the stars on a private island in Botswana’s Okavango Delta.

Learn more about family travel with GeoEx at GeoEx.com/Family

ABOVE  Safaris are about more than the Big Five.

Boundless Possibilities What you see in the pages ahead is just a sampling of what’s possible when it comes to GeoEx Family Adven- tures. We invite you to browse the infinitely customizable itineraries on GeoEx.com/Family for additional ideas and inspiration, from experiencing Scotland’s shimmering lochs to sailing by gulet along Turkey’s Aegean coast (with swimming, snorkeling, and ruin exploring) to meeting Magellanic penguins in Patagonia. And if you have something else altogether in mind for your next family vacation, just let us know.

Celebration and Connection We’re fans of bringing families together in special ways to mark birthdays, anniversaries, retirement, and other milestones. Perhaps a Galápagos cruise with stops to snorkel with sea lions and hike amid volcanic formations? Maybe a Kenya safari that com- bines game drives and bush walks with visits with local tribespeople? We handle all the details so you can focus on connecting with the world and with each other.

MEET THE MUROS We’ve enjoyed three GeoEx trips so far, and soon we’re off to Peru! When planning trips, we try to tie in concepts our kids are learning about in school, such as evolution or ancient civilizations. We loved planting trees in Costa Rica’s rain forest, snorkeling with penguins in the Galápagos, seeing a newly born giraffe on wobbly legs nuzzling its mother in Kenya, and hearing about conservation in all three places. The connections we felt with people from other cultures—while exchanging bracelets in Kenya, playing street games in Quito, and cooking tortillas in Costa Rica—will stay with us forever. Working with GeoEx is a huge time saver for us, but it’s so much more. We appreciate that GeoEx listens to what we want and plans our trips efficiently, safely, and responsibly. The company works seamlessly with on-the-ground guides,

coordinating every detail (from airport transfers to special requests to food-allergy needs), and builds relationships that support local communities and the environment. GeoEx’s commitment to safety sets it above the rest. Before we arrived, every destination knew about our needs and had planned accordingly. We could just relax, learn, and enjoy!

the muro family

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Every detail was taken care of. . . . I had the best trip of my life. I can’t imagine a better company to travel with.

barb b., yakima, wa

GeoEx Trains

On our Antarctica trip, everything was a highlight! We saw an abundance of animals: whales (orca and humpback), penguins (chinstrap,Adelie, and even one lone emperor), seals, and birds. Each and every expedition guide was outstanding! Their enthusiasm was infectious!

and Cruises

jane e., bethesda, md

Rail Journeys Railroading with GeoEx inspires the grand, elegant notion of travel. We start with exquisite Golden Eagle trains, then add our outstanding attention to comfort, safety, and overall experience. GeoEx’s rail journeys course Eurasia and the Middle East at just the right pace, tending to details from start to finish—visa assistance, airport pickups, trip extensions, and more—making these epic jaunts into carefree, fulfilling, far-reaching adventures. We’re fond of the classic Siberia-spanning journey described on page 43, as well as our many other railroad

offerings. The Trans-Indian Express , for example, traverses the subcontinent from the Arabian Sea to the Bay of Bengal, with stops to visit Mumbai’s Dhobi Ghat, Jaipur’s bazaar, Varanasi’s chanting priests, and Darjeeling’s tea country, among much else. And Persia and the Silk Road rolls between Tehran and Moscow, crossing five countries and revealing modern-day Iran, astonishing Persian art and architecture, and a Soviet-built space launch site in Kazakhstan. Find out more at GeoEx.com/Trains

GOLDEN EAGLE LUXURY TRAINS

Cruises: FromYachts to Icebreakers Since some of the earth’s spectacles are best reached by ship and since cruising is an extremely pleasurable, relaxed way to travel—not having to pack and repack is a treat—our destination experts have hand-selected a number of extraordinary voyages for our travelers. The purposefully chosen vessels, which range from private sailing yachts and river cruisers to ice-strengthened ships, venture to such diverse places as Indonesia, Myanmar, the Galápagos, the Amazon, Antarctica, the Arctic, and Turkey. To browse our ship-shape jaunts, turn to the pages ahead or visit GeoEx.com/Cruises

FACING  A stylish gulet at anchor in the Aegean.  RIGHT  A humpback whale in Alaska at sunset. 

DESIGN PICS / DANITADELIMONT.COM

ALI KABAS / DANITADELIMONT.COM

The moment we landed in Bhutan, our guide whisked us to a just-announced Buddhist ceremony consecrating a five-story-tall thongdrel appliqué work. While monks chanted, we eased into the sea of joyful villagers and encountered big smiles and shy hellos. Kids waved and mugged for our cameras. My heart leapt at our luck and swelled at the warm welcome. In the ensuing days, a woman spontaneously invited us for butter tea; migrating black-necked cranes made an early appearance, seemingly just for us; and we found ourselves hiking a trail with schoolchildren returning home and shared a spirit-lifting hour walking and chatting with them. As the serendipities unfolded, I felt lighter and lighter, as if buoyed on a cloud of Bhutanese beauty and kindness.

—Amanda McKee, from “Serendipities In Bhutan”  For the full story, go to GeoEx.com/Blog

DAVID LAZAR

Essence of Bhutan

EXQUISITE SCENERY, VIBRANT CULTURE, AND SACRED FESTIVALS

TOURING · DAY HIKING | 12 DAYS · GROUP

G etting to know Bhutan has been a balm and a revelation to our many GeoEx travelers through the years. Brent Olson, a veteran of nearly 50 trips to the Dragon Kingdom since we started our program there more than 30 years ago, created Essence of Bhutan as “a summary of all that draws us to Bhutan: its outstanding people, its sweet scenery, and its vibrant, proud culture.” Not to be immodest, but we’re confident that because of our long experience in the country, our deep affection for it, and the matchless know-how we bring to it, no company can showcase Bhutan like GeoEx. Rambling through rolling countryside, staying in wonderful hotels, and taking optional day hikes to tradi- tional villages and serene valleys, we immerse ourselves in this unique island of sanity and peace. We’ll attend one of the country’s festivals, joyous expressions of its Buddhist culture, joining hun- dreds of villagers to soak up the reverential

and watch mesmerizing masked dances. We’ll take close looks at the creation of Bhutanese art forms: thangka painting, textile weaving, and wood carving, art forms that are cherished and used by the Bhutanese. We’ll ven- ture into homes of friends and hike to the cliff-clinging, breath-stopping Taktsang Lhakhang, or Tiger’s Nest monastery. And throughout we’ll rejoice in the essence of a country that seems to have gotten it right, and is determined to keep it that way. Day 1  arrive in Paro ✦  2  fly to Bumthang region ✦  3  explore Bumthang ✦  4  by road to Trongsa ✦  5  on to the Phobjikha Valley ✦  6  Phobjikha walks ✦  7  drive to Punakha ✦  8  explore the Punakha Valley ✦  9  continue to Thimphu ✦  10  visit Thimphu, return to Paro  ✦ 11  hike to Taktsang Lhakhang  ✦  12  depart Paro. ABOVE  Young monks in Bhutan. The idea that a sovereign nation would use an index of Gross National Happiness to measure its success might strike us as utopian or naïve, but the Bhutanese are intelligently serious about it. nov. 8–19, 2019; mar. 27–apr. 7, 2020; oct. 22–nov. 2, 2020; nov. 1–12, 2020 from $7950

Bhutan

atmosphere, revel in a rollicking celebration,

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T  his very special journey led by Brent Olson (to whom we pay tribute one page west of here) takes us deeper into Bhutan than most travelers go, exploring the Buddhist heritage, pristine mountain scenery, and splendid textile traditions of the kingdom’s eastern half. To dive in, we hop a scenic flight to the Trashigang District, the “Jewel of the East.” Then it’s an overland journey through bucolic countryside awash in tumbling rivers, bird-filled forests, and terraced landscapes to Lhuntshi, one of the kingdom’s most isolated and least developed districts. With a tented camp as our home base for three nights, we discover pilgrimage sites and the birthplace of Bhutan’s monarchy. In the village of Khoma, beloved across the country for its intricately handwoven kira (the national dress for women), we learn about weaving and may take a turn at the loom ourselves. When the area’s annual tshechu (festival) kicks off, we’re likely to be the only Westerners in attendance, beholding masked dances, folk songs, and crowds dressed in their finest. The road carries us westward into the Bumthang region, Bhutan’s spiritual heartland. We overnight in a charming guesthouse attached to a 19th-century nobles’ manor (now museum) and are invited into Pema Chol- ing, one of Bhutan’s only nunneries. Jambay Lhakhang, believed to be as old as the Jokhang in Tibet, and New �  Off the Map in Eastern Bhutan TOURING | 14 DAYS · GROUP

ROBERT MACKINLAY

Tamzhing, a UNESCO-listed monastery with 500-year- old paintings, are just two of the moving temples we see before flying back to Paro in the country’s west and capping off our trip at the Tiger’s Nest.

nov. 3–16, 2019; oct. 21–nov. 3, 2020 from $10,435

Day 1  arrive in Paro ✦  2  Paro ✦  3  fly to Yonphula, drive to Trashigang ✦  4  on to Lhuntshi ✦  5  Geonkhar Tshechu, Khoma ✦ 6  Lhuntshi exploring ✦  7  drive to Mongar ✦  8  by road to Tang Valley ✦  9  explore Tang Valley ✦  10 & 11  temples and hiking in Chamkhar and Jakar Valleys ✦  12  Jambay Tshechu, fly to Paro ✦  13  hike to Tiger’s Nest ✦  14  depart.

BELOW  Lhuntshi Dzong, eastern Bhutan. The roots of the royal House of Wangchuck reach back to this region.

EYE UBIQUITOUS / ALAMY

TOURISM COUNCIL OF BHUTAN

New �  Bhutan’s Hidden HighlandsTrek  AN EXPEDITION TO GANGKHAR PUENSUUM TREKKING | 18 DAYS · GROUP

B hutan is an ideal destination for trekkers wishing to experience the magic of the Himalaya without the commercialism,” wrote trekking guru Bart Jordans in his lauded guidebook. Unlike in other parts of the Himalaya, mountaineering is forbidden in Bhutan. Even when it was permitted, its highest peak, Gangkhar Puensuum—which shoots up to 24,836 feet along the Tibetan border—proved too challenging to summit, and it continues to be cel- ebrated as the highest unclimbed mountain massif in the world. Virtually visitor-free, the region presents staggering alpine beauty that can be enjoyed in sensational solitude.

Things have changed little in the area since GeoEx led the first American-guided expedition to the base of this snowcapped jewel in 1998. This year Bart is lead- ing a small party of intrepid adventurers to the stunning south wall of Gangkhar and its satellites. We trek through pine, juniper, and rhododendron forests, follow the swift-flowing Chamkhar River to yak herder meadows, and pass bamboo thickets and gnarly rock peaks before reaching wide-open glacier valleys. After a full day of exploring— and photographing—the side valleys and rocky terrain below Gangkhar’s ice field and peak, we commence an equally scenic return trip. This wonderfully rewarding and rarely done expedi- tion (complete with full support, top-notch tents, and a camp staff to provide tasty meals) is bookended by visits to some of Bhutan’s most noteworthy (and somewhat more accessible) sights, including Bumthang’s remark- able temples; Membartsho, the mythical “burning lake”; Thimphu’s handicraft schools and matches of archery (the national sport/obsession); and the iconic Tiger's Nest.

All good trips are, like love, about being carried out of yourself and deposited in the midst of terror and wonder.

pico iyer

nov. 4–21, 2019; nov. 6–23, 2020 from $10,475

Day 1  arrive in Paro, explore ✦  2  Tiger’s Nest hike ✦  3  fly to Jakar, Bumthang discovery ✦  4  Ugyen Choling and Membartsho ✦  5  drive to Naspe; begin expedition ✦  6–8  trekking ✦  9  arrive at Barmarpa ✦  10  base of Gangkhar Puensuum ✦  11–14  descend on foot ✦ 15  complete trek in Dhur; drive to Jakar ✦  16  fly to Paro ✦  17  Thimphu excursion ✦  18  depart.

BHUTAN VIEW / ALAMY

ABOVE  Gangkhar Puensuum, Bhutan. “Maps of its far-flung location,” Condé Nast Traveler explained, “have been so inaccurate over the years that the first team to attempt the summit couldn’t even find it!”

New �  Legendary Nepal TOURING · HIKING · OPTIONAL TREKKING | 12 DAYS · GROUP

T  rekking (in the modern sense of the word) was born in Nepal, the rooftop of the world, and though the typical routes have become overrun with eager hikers, the remote Solu Khumbu region brings us back to the Nepal we fell in love with decades ago: jaw-dropping Himalayan scenery, Sherpa traditions, and very few other travelers. The great mountaineer Sir Edmund Hillary also adored this corner of the earth, and we walk in his footsteps—and sleep where he slept— on this unusual adventure. After taking in highlights of the UNESCO-acclaimed Kathmandu Valley, we’re whisked by helicopter far off the tourist circuit to the mountain town of Phaplu. Set- tling into the newly renovated Happy House, ancestral home of our friend Ang Tshering Lama, we hear stories about explorers who stayed there, including Sir Edmund Hillary and Count Guido Monzino. (Look for items from the Italian count’s 1973 Everest expedition, the most extravagant in history, in which some 6,000 porters carried fine wines, silverware, gambling tables, cigars, and leather sofas up the mountain.) Day hikes take us to Thupten Choeling Monastery, a bastion of Tibetan Bud- dhism, and Junbesi village, the cradle of Sherpa culture. We unwind with home-cooked meals by the fire, singing bowl sessions, and guided yoga. Those of us up for a relaxed four-day trek make our way through lush valleys and forests and past temples, terraced fields, waterfalls, and astonishing snowcapped vistas to reach the 13,337-foot summit of Pikey Peak— said to offer Hillary’s favorite view of Mount Everest.

BEYUL EXPERIENCES

ABOVE  The Happy House, a superb place to kick back after a good hike, just like Sir Edmund Hillary did.  BELOW  Pikey Peak with prayer flags.

This is the only place on earth where, on a clear day, all eight of Nepal’s 8000-meter giants can be seen at once. Before returning to Kathmandu, we get a last dose of mountain majesty with an exhilarating helicopter fly-by of Mount Everest. may 1–12; oct. 15–26  from $11,375 Day 1  arrive in Kathmandu ✦  2  explore Kathmandu ✦  3  helicopter to Phaplu ✦  4  Chiwong Monastery day hike ✦  5–8  opt for Pikey Peak trek or excursions to villages, markets, and Ratnange Ridge ✦  9  Thupten Choeling Monastery, Junbesi village ✦  10  Everest fly-by; helicopter to Kathmandu ✦  11  Kathmandu sightseeing ✦  12  depart.

ROBERTHARDING / ALAMY

Himalayan Explorer

TOURING | 12 DAYS · CUSTOM

KEREN SU / CHINA SPAN

T  his journey is close to our hearts, inspired by one of the first trips we operated in the mid-1980s. Back then, one of our early visionaries had to skillfully negotiate the crossing of a forbidden border in order to take travelers from Lhasa, Tibet (a province of China), to Kathmandu, Nepal. Today, this route still feels like a great adventure. After a few days in the Holy City of Lhasa, taking in the Potala, joining pilgrims at the Jokhang Temple, and strolling and bargaining in the Barkhor, the city’s old quarter, we begin one of the planet’s most dramatic drives. We crest 15,700-foot

Khampa La and wheel past turquoise lakes and icy peaks to Gyantse’s astounding giant chorten , the Kumbum. Con­ tinuing over the high and dry Tibetan Plateau, we stop at Sakya, a monastery that was instrumental in transmitting Buddhism to the Mongol court of Kublai Khan. Then up

Happiness is an inside job.

william arthur ward

offered may–oct. from $7350

to Rongbuk, the world’s highest monastery, set at the base of Everest’s iconic north face. A short distance from here, the early British expeditions of the 1920s and ’30s made their valiant, doomed attempts on the earth’s apex. Another tremendous drive takes us down to the warmth and greenery of Kyirong Valley (“Valley of Happiness” in Tibetan), across the frontier bridge, and through classic Nepalese landscapes to the bright lights of Kathmandu. We revel in aerial views of Mount Everest and get to know the capital’s old and current heart, Durbar Square and Hanuman Dhoka, a beguiling complex of buildings, temples, and courtyards, thronged with street merchants, wandering holy men, and businessmen worshipping at gaudy little shrines.

Day 1  arrive in Chengdu ✦  2  fly to Lhasa ✦  3 & 4  Lhasa ✦  5  drive to Gyantse ✦  6  by road to Shigatse ✦  7  on to Shekar via Sakya monastery ✦  8  excursion to Everest Base Camp ✦  9  drive to Kyirong ✦  10  on to Kathmandu ✦  11  Everest sightseeing flight, Kathmandu ✦ 12  depart.

BELOW  Potala Palace, Lhasa, Tibet. “Tibetan architecture sought to instill a sense of exaltation, security, and delight in a person’s nervous system,” wrote the great Tibetologist Robert Thurman.

MICHAEL YAMASHITA / NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC IMAGE COLLECTION

CUSTOM HIMALAYA

4 Bhutan Insider

O ur ties to this striking region go back almost as long as we can remember. Many GeoEx old-timers initiated their travel lives in Nepal, GeoEx got its start in Tibet (see the story at GeoEx.com/History), and for more than 30 years, our team has explored Bhutan widely and deeply, developing unmatched in-country expertise and building strong relationships that help us open doors and find unexpected pleasures. In Bhutan, we can arrange Custom Trips for textile fanciers, for scholars of Vajrayana Buddhism, for trekkers in virgin areas of the Himalaya, and for families who want to visit distant festivals. In Tibet and Nepal, we delight in handcrafting journeys that focus on important but remote pilgrimage sites and monasteries, on wildlife refuges, or on mountain areas few Westerners have ever seen. All in good GeoEx style, with an eye for endless, high beauty and the utmost respect for living cultures. Here’s a sample of our wide-ranging roster of Himalayan journeys. As always, all of our trips are customizable to meet your interests, time constraints, and travel ambitions—even to connect this region with other parts of Asia. The trip was fantastic and I can’t thank you and the GeoEx team enough for putting together such an unforgettable experience.The best part was how seamlessly everything went, given that we covered such a large area of geography. 

A journey displaying western Bhutan’s geographic splendor, spiritual

generosity, and stateliest hotels with such GeoEx touches as school visits, guided meditations,

meetings with dignitaries,

and archery lessons.

touring · day hiking | 9 days 

4 Invitation to Nepal

A thrilling look at Nepal’s many layers, with a breathtaking Mount Everest flight, relaxed day hiking in the Annapurna, and a Chitwan National Park safari. touring · hiking · safari | 11 days 4 Himalayan Treks An assortment of dazzling treks, varying in length and difficulty, that wander the eye-popping Khumbu (Everest) region, the

kingdom of Mustang (with Tibetan culture, treasure-filled monasteries, and sandstone cliffs), the far-flung Tsum Valley, and more.

maggie o., alexandria, va

Eastern India’sTribal Tapestry

TRADITIONS AND TEMPLES IN OFF-THE-RADAR ODISHA

TOURING | 12 DAYS · GROUP AND CUSTOM

I ndia is proof that a seemingly impossible bounty of  languages and cultures can be defined as one country, and its state of Odisha shines among its brightest stars of diversity. This region is home to 62 tribal communities, each with its own dialect and customs, who rely on the forests and seas for their livelihood, living as hunter- gatherers, farmers, fisherfolk, or cattle herders, largely isolated from the modern world. We journey deep into the valleys of India’s Eastern Ghats to respectfully encounter these people, learning about their ways of life and the challenges they face to keep their tradi- tions alive. Delving far off the traveler radar, we meet with vil- lage elders, priests, and artisans. We go to market, perhaps sitting by a creek to watch tribespeople arrive: women dressed in their finest saris, hair neatly plaited, carrying jugs of palm wine or woven baskets; men escorting cattle; kids skipping across stones; everyone stopping to clean their feet in the cool water before continuing. We spend time with indigenous folks who welcome us for home- cooked meals. Stupendous heritage sites also showcase the area’s religious and cultural mélange. The state’s capital, Bhubaneswar, sits at the crossroads of Hindu, Buddhist, and Jain religions and is an important pilgrimage desti­ nation for many Indians. There we wander among the 500 remaining graceful towers and artfully detailed sculpture of the 7,000 stone temples that once stood. In Puri, we commune with the trinity of deities, sur- rounded by blaring celebratory music and wall-scaling

KEREN SU / CHINA SPAN

ABOVE Women transplanting rice seedlings in Odisha, India.

monkeys, and we linger at the 13th-century Konark Sun Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage–listed Brahman sanctuary, considered one of the most stun- ning monuments of religious architecture on earth.

group trips from $6745 nov. 13–24, 2019; jan. 29–feb. 9, 2020; nov. 4–15, 2020 also offered as custom trip oct.–mar.

Day 1  arrive in Kolkata ✦  2  fly to Bhubaneswar ✦ 3 & 4  drive to Puri, explore ✦  5  fly to Visakhapatnam ✦  6  drive to Goudaguda ✦  7  visit tribal villages ✦ 8  Chatikona Market ✦  9  Onkudeli Market

India

✦  10  village walks ✦  11  drive to Visakhapatnam, fly to Kolkata ✦  12  depart.

BELOW  A boy on fishing boats in Puri, set on the Bay of Bengal.

HEMIS / ALAMY

DAVID LAZAR

FromTaj toTiger TOURING | 12 DAYS, OR 14 WITH OPTIONAL VARANASI EXTENSION · GROUP AND CUSTOM

We delve into the wilds of Ranthambore National Park, haven for a quickly multiplying congregation of Royal Bengal tigers (among other elegant creatures), while savoring tented luxury at the award-winning Oberoi Vanyavilas. Finally it’s on to Agra for an uncrowded look at the ineffable Taj. “The gem of man’s handiworks,” Lord Curzon called it, “without aw or blem- ish, exquisite, irresistible, impossible to criticize, incapable of improvement, the most perfect structure in the world.” Those not ready to leave this compelling country can add two days in Varanasi, Hindu- ism’s most important pilgrimage site, for explorations including a stirring, misty, early-morning look into the soul of India from a boat on the sacred Ganges.

W  hen we refer to a trip like From Taj to Tiger as a classic , we mean that, first, it was inspired by our fondness for the places it visits and, second, because so many GeoEx travelers over the years have fallen in love with those places. We’re privileged to be in the business of presenting these kinds of stupendously colorful, gloriously engaging, unforgettably interesting trips. From Taj to Tiger intertwines thoughtful stops at some of India’s most compelling sights and monuments with game viewing at one of the country’s preeminent wildlife parks. (Our group size is considerably smaller than that of other companies’ ostensibly similar trips, we stay in abso- lutely top-notch hotels throughout, and our leaders are the toppest-notch in India or anywhere.) After a good look at Delhi, we fly to the state of Rajasthan, initially to explore Udaipur, the City of Sun- rise, and then to join locals in the ancient village of Narlai to celebrate the much-anticipated and enthusiastically fêted Holi or Diwali Festival. We take in the expressive Jain temples of Ranakpur before wandering for a day or so in Jaipur—“bustling, monkey- lled, oleander pink toytown capital of Rajasthan,” in the words of Louise Nicholson.

For north-to-south India explorations, see GeoEx.com

group trips from $9970 oct. 23–nov. 3, 2019 (with diwali festival); mar. 5–16, 2020 (with holi festival); nov. 9–20, 2020 (with diwali festival) also offered as custom trip oct.–apr.

Day 1  arrive in Delhi ✦  2  explore Delhi ✦  3  fly to Udaipur ✦ 4  Udaipur sightseeing ✦  5  drive to Narlai ✦  6  Holi or Diwali Festival ✦  7  on to Jaipur ✦  8  discover Jaipur ✦  9  drive to Ranthambore National Park ✦  10  game viewing ✦  11  to Agra by train and road ✦ 12  return to Delhi, depart.

You have to see India to believe it.

ABOVE  The Taj Mahal at sunrise. “We know the Taj’s history, almost stone by stone,” wrote Enrique Ortiz, “but that no more explains it than a treatise on music explains Mozart.”

kathleen b., troy, mi

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INDIA

Traveling with our kids taught me to slow down

and appreciate the world from their perspective, stopping—and stooping—to marvel at fluttering butterflies,

  sweet-smelling flowers, and brightly colored rocks. And when they   became older, their wide-open curiosity and impassioned questions  prompted me to look more deeply into the history of a place and the  traditions of its people.Their curiosity and openness deepened my own. Our adventures also influenced the people they have become. Now both young adults, they are avid travelers, comfortable in the wide world—

 a direct result, I think, of being exposed to other cultures, foods, traditions,

    and landscapes.Travel taught them that strangers are friends and that   the world is full of wonder and grace.

—Don George, from “The Lifelong Gifts of Family Travel” For the full story, go to GeoEx.com/Blog

ROBERT HARDING PICTURE LIBRARY / NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC IMAGE COLLECTION

New �  Soul of Sri Lanka TOURING | 14 OR 15 DAYS · GROUP

this evolving nation. In the northern city of Jaffna, we meet Tamil locals, visit Hindu temples, and discover the part of the country least touched by tourism. We venture through the Cultural Triangle, gazing at the exquisite frescoes of Sigiriya’s ruined fortress and other UNESCO- acclaimed archaeological gems, wander breathtaking tea trails, and get to know captivating colonial towns. Two fabulous nights are spent in a luxurious tented camp in Yala National Park, where jungle meets ocean and wild- life encounters may include endangered elephants, elusive leopards, and flying foxes. We cap off the trip exploring Colombo’s energetic streets and fast-changing skyline with a resident researcher and photographer. Day 1  arrive in Colombo ✦  2 & 3  fly to Jaffna and explore ✦  4–8  Sigiriya fortress, Dambulla caves, Kandy, and ancient capitals of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa ✦  9 & 10  Tea Country by train and foot ✦  11 & 12  Yala National Park ✦  13  Galle ✦  14  drive to Colombo, walking tour, depart. Sri Lanka feb. 8–21; feb. 22–mar. 6; july 24–aug. 7 (with esala perahera festival) from $11,860

S ir Arthur C. Clarke, a writer whose creative vision extended beyond our galaxy, called Sri Lanka home for the better part of his adult life. It’s little surprise he could fathom the unfathomable on this unsung isle, where time is more of a notion than a measure to live by, and landscapes are, as Jan Morris praises, so “seductive, grand, or intimate in turn, so intricately jammed together that in a morning’s journey you can pass from jungle to alp to classic tropical foreshore.” While Sri Lanka is certainly on island time, you can’t call it sleepy. After 400 years of colonialism followed by a 30-year ethnic war, Sri Lankans are impatient to make a name for themselves in the global sphere. Colombo is rapidly blossoming into a modern metropolis with designer clothing boutiques, contemporary art galleries, co-working spaces, and international restaurants. Outside of the capital, new accommodations are opening their doors, and the Northern Province (sometimes known as Tamil Country) is welcoming its first travelers in decades. Unusually comprehensive, Soul of Sri Lanka ties together the most fascinating sights and best lodgings of

ABOVE  One of Sri Lanka’s eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites and its largest and best-preserved cave temple complex, Dambulla has been a sacred place of pilgrimage for 22 centuries.

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